A shining slice of sushi

Maeda Sushi a must for anyone who loves Japanese food

By Greg Morago

Courant food critic
March 19, 2008

Critic's Rating:
4

A shining slice of sushi
Photos:
Omakase Sashimi Yasuo Maeda Slicing Raw Fish Pickled Ginger
Maeda is, quite literally, a bright shining object of wonder on the local dining scene that deserves to be in the spotlight. The superlative sushi, pristine sashimi and imaginative rice and fish dishes being created (or should we say, art-directed) by sushi master Yasuo Maeda are among the best Japanese foods I've had the pleasure of eating.

According to the new restaurant's website, Chef Maeda decided to retire from hectic city life (after a career that began as a young apprentice in a highly regarded Tokyo sushi restaurant that led to running his own sushi house in Manhattan for years) to move to the Connecticut 'burbs. If Maeda Sushi is the chef's senior citizen project, well, he's going to be a busy AARPer.

Already friends who are sushi fans have reported on delirious happy encounters with Maeda's jewel-like morsels of sardine, red snapper, fatty tuna and eel. Even a dining companion who is afraid of sushi was so moved by the beauty of an octopus presentation that she took the leap. And not only lived, she was emboldened to try more.

For those who already love sushi, Maeda is a must. I don't profess to be an expert in this particular culinary realm, but I know enough to appreciate the skill and artistry originating from this small light box tucked in the back of a mall.

The eats: Dozens of sashimi, sushi and roll options as well as teriyaki, charashi and don bowls, tempura and salads. Some entrees come with miso soup and a salad with ginger or sesame dressing.

The look: The brightly lighted room is minimally decorated and sparsely furnished. The clean, unfussy space allows diners to focus on the work of the sushi chef. Coveted seats at the sushi bar put you close to the master.

The vibe: Calm, welcoming. Once you're seated you feel the calming presence of Chef Maeda throughout the room. Put yourself in his hands; surrender to the service; let the menu take you away from a simple storefront to some place extraordinarily special.

The damage: Appetizers $6-$18; entrees $14-$35; sushi $3-$6; sashimi $6-$10; rolls $4.50-$9.50.

Bottom line: Blindingly good. The restaurant, open only three months when we visit, is self assured and ready for an appreciative audience that probably already has found its own clean slice of sushi heaven.

Read the rest of Greg Morago's review on www.courant.com.

Maeda Sushi Restaurant
530 Bushy Hill Road, Simsbury
860-651-4100