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Like the Polytechnic before it, ON20 exudes a sense of importance, solidified by its unimpeachable beauty and service.
And then there's Jones' food, which can be enjoyed as a three-course prix fixé lunch or a tasting menu of jaw-dropping delicacies that can take hours to reach its sweet conclusion. Jones, executive chef here for two-and-a-half years, delights in sending out unexpected treats to all his customers.
Look: Handsome space with breathtaking views of Hartford and the Connecticut River. Rich woods, textiles and appointments combine to lend an air of elegance. A recent face lift and hip new moniker have breathed a refreshing spirit into the class act.
Vibe: No need to fear stuffiness. The surroundings may be posh and the service impeccable, but ON20 is anything but haughty. The team here, while polite and deferential, makes you feel at home.
Eats: Magnificent. Chef Noel Jones has created a menu of astonishments that will make diners look at meals with new eyes and resurrected palates. If you want to experience the full force of Jones' talents, call ahead to request his tasting menu. It's probably the state's most amazing culinary journey.
The damage: The three-course prix fixé lunch (soup or appetizer, entree, dessert and coffee or tea) is $35; a bargain considering the food quality, presentation and surroundings. The extras can add up (wine bottles start at an affordable $40 but the higher-end vintages can easily be five times more expensive). The tab includes 20 percent gratuity and parking is extra.
Bottom line: This enchanting aerie is home to one of the state's most masterful chefs. If you haven't heard of Jones, blame his modesty. If you haven't eaten his marvelous food, blame only yourself.
Read the full review on www.courant.com
ON20
One State Street, Hartford
860-722-5161
