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And then it struck me. The differences between Trinity, a small, simple, family-run operation on the western fringe of Hartford's Trinity College, and slick eateries or chain restaurants was evident in that last word. Food. At big restaurants, the server is likely to say "Enjoy your dinner" or "Enjoy your meal." Dinner sounds impersonal; meals sound generic. Food is so much more. Food is, well, life.
And there's plenty of that at Trinity Restaurant. The food I sampled there was full of life, full of soul. From the first morsel, a basket of small, round, hand-formed rolls that seemed to be pulled fresh out of the oven, I sensed we were going to experience one of those all-too-rare examples of authentic home cooking. That was confirmed with the first spoonful of pasta and bean soup, an herb-flecked minestrone that would make a homesick child long to be in mom's kitchen.
Trinity Restaurant, for those who don't know, is in the home of the former Timothy's on Zion Street, a place that was dear to Hartford residents and the Trinity community for years. Natasha Agolli and her husband, Alle, both chef-owners, have manned the stoves at the tiny, corner eatery since last July. It's hard to say whether longtime Timothy's customers have embraced Trinity; so much has changed. Where Timothy's had an eclectic, almost bohemian vibe with a menu to match, Trinity aims higher with an upscale dinner menu that samples Italian, Greek and French with prices—although more than fair in my estimation—that don't particularly scream student budget. Sure, you can get a $10 pizza and a $6 green salad, but Trinity isn't trying to be Timothy's.
The look: The small, main dining room with eight tables sports a clean look with a black pressed tin ceiling, glass-topped tables with comfortable chairs, lace curtains in the storefront windows and sunflower gold walls with pretty artwork. In our two visits we spotted tables of happy girlfriends enjoying a night out, older couples, students sharing pizza and blue-blazered alums.
The vibe: Welcoming, homey, honest, utterly unpretentious. The service is sweet (the owner's niece and nephew) and furthers the sense of a family-affair business. The mom and pop nature is underscored when owner Natasha Agolli pops out to check on her customers.
The eats: Appetizers include steamed mussels, cod cake, goat-cheese stuffed artichokes, calamari in tomato and white wine sauce, antipasti, Greek salad, spinach and arugula salad, Caesar salad, and tomato and mozzarella salad. Dinner entrees include rigatoni Bolognese, orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, grilled chicken Gorgonzola, lamb osso buco, sea scallops with truffle mashed potatoes, filet mignon, swordfish, salmon and dozens of pizza possibilities.
The bill: Dinner appetizers, $2.95 to $10.95; dinner entrees, $13 to $20; desserts, $2.95 to $4.95. Bringing your own beer and wine makes Trinity a bargain. The quality of the food is also high; a bargain.
The verdict: It's easy to overlook this small, neighborhood restaurant, but you will thank yourself for finding it. When chain restaurants glut our dining options, it's heartwarming to know there are sweet, mom-and-pop efforts like Trinity.
Read the rest of the review on courant.com.
Trinity Restaurant
243 Zion St., Hartford
860-728-9822
