Inside: Miso

Miso's "Happy Roll" (Credit: Ross Taylor/Hartford Courant)

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The signature soup isn’t the only thing that’s green at Miso, a trendy Japanese eatery nestled in downtown New Haven’s up-and-coming ninth square. Eco-conscious eaters will find it a delight to dine at the cozy restaurant, built with all organic materials and owned by a true nature-lover.

100-year old wooden column beams house an impressive interior of imported bamboo—a fast growing renewable resource—and seating made from recycled lumber. Even the ceiling and walls are made of recycled paper sound boarding. And, according to Miso's Web site, the restaurant occupies a historic building site.

Miso is a kind of Zen oasis amidst the gritty pizzerias and burger joints characteristic of the downtown area. With attentive, well-versed staff and exceptional Japanese cuisine, the result might well be compared to a spiritual awakening.

The eats: Miso’s appetizers range from $7 to $14 and feature traditional Japanese favorites like tempura, edamame and specialty rolls. On a recent visit, we started with mild-tasting Gyoza, baked dumplings filled with pork and vegetables, and a flavorful Seafood Soup, made with shrimp, scallop, clam, crab meat, fish cake and vegetables. A few unusual options have also worked their way onto the menu, such as the tuna sandwich, a twist on the original made with raw tuna in masago and a crunchy Japanese mayonnaise mix with rice.

In a satisfactory homage to its namesake, Miso serves up a tasty take on the classic Miso soup as well.

Dinner options ($7 to $50) include sushi, sashimi, vegetarian rolls, rice and noodle dishes, meats, seafood and teriyaki and tempura meals. The Miso fried rice, tossed with shrimp, scallops, mushrooms, asparagus and scallions, was fabulous, as were the über-fresh shrimp and California sushi rolls.

Some of the chef’s favorites include the Grill Scallop Miso, grilled sea scallops with creamy miso sauce, and Shoga Yaki, tender slices of chicken or beef with onion sautéed in ginger sauce.

To top the meal off, we shared a scoop of fried vanilla ice cream drizzled with chocolate sauce, though I wish we tried the F.B.I.–fried banana with ice cream. I’ll be sure to get it on my next trip. Desserts run between $4 and $9 apiece.

The booze: Torn between the extensive list of specialty drinks, including unique martinis, wine, margaritas and beer ranging from $4 to $25, our waitress recommended “The Volcano” ($25), an enormous rose-colored concoction for two consisting of Stoli vodka, gin, rum, apricot brandy, triple-sec and tropical juices, garnished with multiple maraschino cherries, orange and lemon slices. The Volcano's crown jewel is a floating half-lemon filled with 151 and set ablaze to create a “molten” effect.

Other drink menu standouts include the “Saketini,” sake and dry vermouth chilled and garnished with cucumber, and the “Ginger Spice,” a martini consisting of Kettle One, citrus vodka, homemade ginger syrup and a splash of sour mix. 

The look: The interior of Miso is clean and modern. Low-lit and streamlined, there is a deliberately minimal motif. A variety of seating and dining options make for a versatile experience. In addition to indoor and outdoor seating (with ample room for large groups), Miso also offers Hibachi and both a Sushi bar and a traditional bar.

The vibe: Tucked in a quiet yet thriving corner of Orange Street, Miso attracts patrons ranging from couples murmuring over shared sushi and cocktails to girlfriends chatting merrily over martinis. The setting is ideal for a relaxed, prolonged meal. As my dinner companion put it, “I already like this place and I haven’t even eaten anything yet.”

The damage: A meal for two at Miso will set you back about $100. Swap the $25 Volcano for ice water and you’re looking at a $75 tab, not including tip.

Bottom line: Though the bill may be a bit pricey, the chic New York City-esque Miso is well worth it for a nice night out. It's a great place to go with friends to experience a different side of New Haven. 

Insider tip: Miso validates parking tickets and even the parking attendant seems to be in the mindset for good sushi. He quizzed us before allowing us to park: “What did Sushi A say to Sushi B? — Wasabi!”

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