J Restaurant

By David Paulsen

October 4, 2007

 
Critic's Rating:
4

J Restaurant
The new look is both refined and understated. (Credit: David Paulsen)

You wouldn't expect fine dining at a place called Pizza Plus Restaurant, which might explain why the name of the restaurant at 297 Washington St. in Hartford was ditched along with the restaurant's old look.
 
The newly renovated eatery, now known as J Restaurant | Bar, still serves Italian food, but it's hardly just a pizza joint anymore.
 
The restaurant earns a few points right off the bat for offering free off-street parking. Inside, the new look is both refined and understated. The restaurant sticks out like a nightlife oasis in a mostly residential neighborhood that is largely defined by the nearby Hartford Hospital.

For fans of the former Pizza Plus, that decades-old restaurant’s flavor still lives in the signature salads and recipe for the house dressing. And the pizza hasn’t gone away. Now it’s sold in 10 gourmet varieties or by the topping.
 
Food: This is straightforward Italian fare, with an emphasis on pasta.  J’s signature dish is a creamy pasta plate called Chicken Riggies. That and each of the rest of the pasta dishes are under $20. The fish and steak entrees cost a little more and come with a bit more flare.

Booze: Mojitos top the drink menu at J Restaurant. They come in three varieties and will set you back $8 each. Other specialty drinks include flavored martinis and pomegranate drinks.

Digs: J Restaurant isn't one of those places that beats you over the head with its design schemes. Brick, stone and artwork are among the few flourishes in this mostly monochromatic space, though the small bar area stands out. This could be a selling point, because the lack of eye-jarring experimentation makes it easier to relax and enjoy the food and conversation.

Vibe: Since J is within a block of Hartford Hospital and Connecticut Children’s Medical Center, it's likely your fellow patrons will be eating in their scrubs, especially during lunch hours. The evening crowd is more diverse, seemingly united by the quest for a leisurely meal rather than making the scene or being seen.

Attire: The hospital scrubs are a clue that little is forbidden in the J dress code, but nicer casual wear is a good bet in the evening.

Sounds: The daily happy hour, from 5-7 p.m., really comes alive outside on the patio every Thursday with live music of the laid-back variety. Don't be surprised to find the acoustic guitar player trying to channel his inner Jack Johnson.

J Restaurant | Bar
297 Washington St., Hartford
Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
860-527-7764

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