Arborio Arancine are a popular appetizer at Glastonbury's Sauce.
(Credit: Michelle Prindle)
Already known for its long waits, its bar scene and its bustling and noisy dinner service, Sauce now also must be recognized for its food, which merits sitting around checking your BlackBerry for half an hour or so before you get to your table. The bottom line is that once here, folks just don't want to leave.
The look: A vaulted, wraparound, corner space is regally appointed, with oversized booths large enough to seat four with room, and tables not on top of each other. Look up, however, and the ceiling is industrial-esque, with exposed duct work that (since noise travels up) can raise the pitch when the place gets busy. Very comfortable, otherwise.
The vibe: Suburban cool meets rakish, sophisticated trattoria meets Soho. A studied eclecticism works here in a way that seems to elude many other establishments that strive for it. Comfortable enough to bring the kids and to wear jeans (and, if you must, a baseball cap — like the guy sitting behind me at dinner), dressy enough to pull out the fancy duds and not feel like you're going to a bar mitzvah.
Food: Remarkably delicious and largely consistent across the menu, Cucina Povera is lent an air of modernism—but not too modern (and no, not too tall)—for a result that is as close as this writer has had to the real thing on the other side of the pond. Having just sat down, we bore witness to someone's nonna (right down to the black skirt and gray cardigan) chanting "Belissima, Belissima" over and over again. What higher praise could there possibly be? We adored the sautéed jumbo shrimp with house-made fettuccine; the Cicchetti were light and simple and tasty; even the bread at the table was outstanding. But whatever you order, have the arancine to start, and try the simply grilled fish, White Marble Farm pork chop the size of a twin mattress, or the rib-eye.
The damage: Not high, given that all portions are shareable. Cicchetti: $4 for one; two for $7; four for $14; six for $21; eight for $25 (you could make that dinner, easily). Antipasti and Insalata: $6.95 to $11.95 Pan-fried pizzas: $9.95 to $13.95; Pasta: $15.95 to $21.95; Entrees: $17.95 to $32.95. Grill menu: $18.95 to $31.95 Desserts: $6.95 to $10.95
Bottom line: This place is startlingly good.
Read the full review on www.courant.com.
Sauce
124 Hebron Ave., Glastonbury
860-430-5940
