Shall we say aphrodisiac?

Oysters and cocktails set the mood for love at 116 Crown

By David Paulsen

Special to Metromix
February 12, 2008

Critic's Rating:
4

Shall we say aphrodisiac?
Photos:
Chic ambiance It's in the details Backlit bar Wine & spirits
Something is happening at 116 Crown St. in downtown New Haven. The new restaurant/nightclub has created quite a stir on the local scene, drawing large crowds with its unique ambiance and eclectic menu.

And, on a recent visit, one thing was for certain: 116 Crown is a romantic winner—on Valentine’s Day or any other day. The cocktail selection alone—not to mention the oysters!—is enough to get you in the mood for luv, and closer to the essence of the 116 Crown experience.

The trendy restaurant and lounge surely isn’t for everybody. To find it endearing, you have to appreciate the jeans-clad servers, the bartender’s yellow sunglasses, the centrally located DJ station, the egg-shaped toilets and the uber-chic ambitions of the proprietors. Guys looking to impress their ladies with fine dining could certainly find more appropriate options.

More likely, 116 Crown is for those lively couples who already have shared a few Valentine’s Days together and are open to something a little funky and unusual. Because this is no stuffy, country club affair. Call it love in the 21st century.

Food: You've probably heard that oysters are aphrodisiacs, and don’t be surprised if your server hints at this sexy subtext. Myth or reality? You be the judge. Either way, 116 Crown serves 'em on the half shell, at a half dozen for $13 and a dozen for $25. The eclectic menu, which inclines itself toward the growing trend of "small plates," also offers exciting choices such as gourmet cheeses and  charcuterie. Big spenders might even consider trying the caviar. Whatever you do, just be sure to leave room for the booze.

Drinks: Ah, booze. The alcohol comes in many flavors at 116 Crown, from wine all the way to whiskey. The cocktail menu is actually twice the size of the food menu, which says something about priorities. And, if you’ve never spent $15 on a cocktail before, this might be a good place to start. Or for a modest $12, you can’t go wrong with the Empire—essentially a Manhattan made with Makers Mark bourbon, but served in a Collins glass and topped with rich apple cider foam.

Décor: The motif at 116 Crown might best be described as “postmodern funhouse,” but tastefully done. Indirect lighting abounds, from the illuminated faux marble counter to the ceiling, seemingly painted to resemble the surface of the moon. The liquor display shelf could easily fit in certain science fiction movies, and the shagadelic booths have to be experienced to be believed. To top it off, people sitting at the bar can stare up at a row of TV monitors showing a closed-circuit feed of—the people sitting at the bar.

Crowd: The lounge draws an easygoing, upscale crowd. Hip college students in street clothes mingle with well-dressed, middle-aged couples in search of adventure. Above all, hanging out seems to be the activity of choice, whether at the bar, at a back table, in a booth or in the alcove around the corner.

Service: The staff is eclectic, some veering toward hipster, others more your Average Joe or the Girl Next Door. But they offer more than style. Test them and discover that they know their stuff and are more than willing to provide drink recommendations and advice on eating oysters on the half shell.

116 Crown
116 Crown St., New Haven
203-777-3116