(Credit: Courtesy the Cheesecake Factory)
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The new chain restaurant with its ginormous menu, gargantuan portions and epic waiting lines has plunked down for the long haul within the faux village retail community known as Blue Back Square in West Hartford.
If you look at Cheesecake Factory as a slice of fiction, it has the heft of Tolstoy but the gravitas of Albom. This matters little to CF fans. The daily mob scene for a table is a testament to CF's almost obscene popularity and worshipful fan base—the Hannah Montana of casual, family-friendly chain restaurants. A visit to CF is like an emotional thrill ride: There's giddy anticipation, tests of patience, bouts of fear and self-doubt, euphoria, the post-sugar rush downer and, perhaps, a look back in anger. The factory has taken experiential dining to a new level.
The look: The trappings may be a bit outlandish, but the colors are warm and the lighting is kind. Kids will like the fanciful design because it will remind them of a theme park or a Disney magic carpet ride. Adults will accept the loopy look because it is secondary to the menu that will keep everyone happy and well-fed.
The vibe: The nasty edge of the hungry and impatient is palpable during peak hours with long waits. I strongly believe the parents with smiles on their faces while their kids are growing ever more antsy have just ingested Mother's Little Helpers. Wash it down with a mojito, sisters! Overall, the vibe is good for those lucky enough to finally be seated and enjoying a beehive-tall salad or a pasta dish that could feed a small village. Service at the tables is pleasant and accommodating. How the servers deal with pressure is a wonder.
The eats: The menu reads longer than the end credits for "National Treasure." But that is CF's claim to fame, a menu to please everyone. The menu's Asian and Mexican leanings are noteworthy and, at least the ones we tried, pretty darn good. Very few customers leave without a doggy bag. Certainly no one should leave without sampling cheesecake.
Bottom line: Bring a book (you might need it to pass the time if there's a wait). If you can live with some of the inconveniences that attend super popular restaurants and if you like places that give you plenty of good food at reasonable prices, you'll be happy here (and chances are you already are a fan of Cheesecake Factory). The impatient, white tablecloth restaurant fans, food and wine snobs, people who hate families and children should all stay away. For everyone else, though, CF can be a whole lot of fun.
Read the full review on www.courant.com
The Cheesecake Factory
71 Isham Road, West Hartford
860-233-5588
