Reading through the menu at
Freskos Grill & Wine Bar in Avon is enough to make a diner shout "Opa!" The nearly year-old restaurant at routes 4 and 10 celebrates Hellenic cuisine with lamb souvlaki, lemon chicken, gyros, moussaka and a ground lamb Greek burger scattered among other Mediterranean-leaning options within its generous and appealing menu.
Intrigued about the Greek fare (we crave the clean, lusty flavors of Hellas), we inquire about the chef's heritage. No, we are told, there's no Greek at the helm. No matter, we still want it. After all, does it take a true Italian to make pasta, a Chinese to fire up the wok or a native Mexican to mojo a mole? Of course not. And this is proved by a moussaka that is so tasty, it might make an Athenian misty-eyed. Unlike the more familiar baked casserole of eggplant layered with lamb sauce, Freskos' version is a lush strata of yellow and green zucchini, meat sauce and béchamel. It arrives dangerously hot but so good that we risk burning our mouths.
The lamb kebab, too, is tasty. Perhaps the meat could have been a tad more tender, but the grilled chunks are flavorful and threaded on a skewer with onions and peppers. Served over rice with a drizzle of tzatziki sauce (the binder of the Greek world: a dip of yogurt, cucumbers and garlic), it's good enough that we are ready to start breaking some plates.
But not so fast. The moment we diverted from the road to the Parthenon, Freksos stumbles. And that's too bad, because the service is sweet and the restaurant itself (comfortable dining room and a swell bar area) is welcoming and even rather handsome.
The look: Good-looking restaurant with walls of exposed brick and warm brown booths. The bar is roomy and handsome; a perfect place for meeting co-workers and friends. The place looks and feels comfortable.
The vibe: Friendly, welcoming. We see girlfriends gossiping over drinks while lounging on sofas in the bar; sports fans watching big-screen TVs in the bar; families and older couples occupying generous booths in the restaurant. Whether it's martinis for the adults or mini-burgers for the kids, everyone seems well served.
The eats: Freskos boasts an extensive menu. Starters include wings, shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, Mediterranean salad, spinach salad, fried goat cheese, seared ahi tuna, baked gouda and Mediterranean platter. Entrees include crispy duck, shrimp Gorgonzola, chicken marsala, pan-seared scallops, zucchini moussaka, steaks. Other entrees: lamb kebab, Greek burger, tuna burger, gyro, chicken carbonara, fettuccine in tomato cream sauce and pizza.
The damage: Appetizers, $7.99 to $10.99. Soups and salads, $3.99 to $9.99. Entrees, $12.99 to $23.99. Grills and pasta, $9.99 to $18.99. Pizza, $12.99 to $21.99.
Bottom line: The road to Athens is paved with good intentions. Freskos has good gut instincts; it just needs to work at improving its upper-body strength.
Read the full review on www.courant.comFreskos Grill & Wine Bar
5 E. Main St., Avon
860-677-5599
